ikat technique meaning

Fabric made using an Indonesian decorative technique in which warp or weft threads, or both, are tie-dyed before weaving. A complex, skill-intensive process of marking, tying and dyeing the design into the yarn. ikat in American English. In fact, many other parts of India have their indigenous Ikat weaving techniques. Warp ikat is, amongst others, produced in Indonesia; more specifically in Kalimantan, Sulawesi, and Sumatra by respectively the Dayaks, Torajans and Bataks. By tradition, ‘Bomkai’ sarees are produced by the ‘Bhulia’ caste. Jun 14, 2013 - I wanted to learn more about the technique and the work involved in making ikat textiles, so I asked for my ikat fabric supplier to arrange a trip to visit some weavers. In some precise weft ikat traditions (Gujarat, India), two artisans weave the cloth: one passes the shuttle and the other adjusts the way the yarn lies in the shed. Generally speaking, it is a technique that involves resist-dyeing. ikat definition: 1. a method of dyeing (= adding colour to) thread after tying it, then using it to make cloth with…. The “ikat” technique in Uzbekistan differs from all others in the complexity of constructing a pattern, the method of coloring and a wide range of colors. In Indonesia double ikat is only woven in the Bali Aga village of Tenganan. The blurriness is a result of the extreme difficulty the weaver has lining up the dyed yarns so that the pattern comes out perfectly in the finished cloth. [Mattiebelle Gittinger and H. Leedom Lefforts, Gill Green,”The Cambodia Weaving Tradition: Little Known Weaving and Loom Artifacts,”. This album is for me to share my appreciation of the work and effort required at each step of the process, from putting the yarn together to dyeing it to weaving the fabric. This process may be repeated … Warp threads are adjusted for the desired alignment for precise motifs. Some weft ikat traditions incorporate this affect into their aesthetic. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. All are correct. Ikat is an ancient technique used to pattern textiles. Nevertheless, highly skilled artisans can produce precise weft ikat. Many designers and high street brands replicate the look of ikat with printing or a jacquard woven fabric. The term "ikat" has Indonesian origin, and it was introduced into European textile vocabulary back in early 20th century, when the Dutch scholars begin to study the rich textile traditions of East Indies archipelago (today Indonesia). If you have ever used one, you will know how unique they are. Just to reiterate how hard this is... in order to replicate a pattern, the weaver would have to dye the thread in exactly the same place as before AND line it up on a loom in EXACTLY the same place AND then they'd have to weave it exactly the same way. The symmetric design is over 200 years old. Double Ikat is a technique in which both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to weaving. In warp ikat, the weft yarns are all dyed a solid colour and only the warp yarns are ikat dyed. Ikat Art. Orissa’s Sambalpuri Ikat is quite different from the sharp Ikat patterns, woven in Patan of Gujarat. In Thailand, weavers make very fine silk sarongs depicting birds and complex geometrical designs in seven colour weft ikat.Weft ikat uses resist-dyeing for the weft yarns. Before the weaving is done, a manual winding of yarn, called Asu, needs to be performed. When the King of Thailand came to the US in 1856, he brought as a gift for President Franklin Pierce fine Cambodian ikat cloth. An original ikat can be easily recognised from the faux printed ones, by either looking up close, or simply turning the fabric over! What does ikat mean? Uzbek ikat colors Patterns created by Uzbek masters are the motifs of the flora and fauna surrounding us. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Double Ikat is created by resist-dyeing both the warp and weft prior to weaving. The amount of labour and skill required also make it the most expensive, and many poor quality cloths flood the tourist markets. The bundles may be covered with wax, as in batik. Now there are only four types of Uyghur atlas remaining: Qara-atlas (Darayi, black ikat used for older women's clothing), Khoja'e-atlas (yellow, blue, purple ikat used for married women), Qizil-atlas (red ikat used for girls) and Yarkant-atlas (Khan-atlas). In Oshima, the warp and weft threads are both used as warp to weave stiff fabric, upon which the thread for the ikat weaving is spot-dyed. The historical record indicates that there were 27 types of atlas during Qing occupation. 2. a fabric made by this technique. The meaning of Ikat is ‘to bind’ in the Indonesian language. Can you explain the difference between single ikat and double ikat patola? The "corte" is the typical wrap skirt used worn by Guatemalan women. Guatemalan ikat is well-noted for its beautiful "blurs.". Latin American ikat (Jaspe, as it is known to Maya weavers) textiles are commonly woven on a back-strap loom. The tie and dye technique used to create a special ikkat, in the Nalgonda district of erstwhile Andhra – now Telangana – primarily in the village named Puttapaka – is the basis of these rare saris. Cambodia The fabric is then woven together, and the colourful pattern of motifs emerges on it. However, it is most prevalent in Indonesia, India and Japan. The term ikat, which comes from a Malay-Indonesian word meaning “to tie,” refers to both the technique and the fabrics and patterns it produces. South American and Indonesian ikat are known for a high degree of warp alignment. The Arabic term for this type of cloth is ‘asb, the root of which means to bind or tie. The essential characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns before the weaving takes place. In weft ikat, it is the weft threads that are ikat dyed. It's an extraordinary achievement in the textile arts. We tie plastic string into the weft yarn before it is woven, we dye the weft yarn and then remove … Other traditions favour a more precise and more difficult to achieve refinement in the placement of the ikat yarns. Meaning of ikat. These are warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat. In warp and double ikat, the pattern emerges on the loom at this stage. Information and translations of ikat in the most comprehensive dictionary definitions resource on the web. Some warp ikat traditions are designed with vertical-axis symmetry or have a "mirror-image" running along their long centre line. This type of weaving is more difficult than warp ikat, as the pattern will be formed only as the weaving progresses. In ikat the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern. The term “ikat” refers to the dyeing technique used to create the designs on the fabric. my previous article, understanding weaving. Ikat is a weaving style common to many world cultures. The technique and textiles first came to Europe via Dutch traders in Southeast Asia, Spanish explorers in South America, and from travelers along the Silk Road, where the Uzbek ikat centers of Samarkand and Bukhara were important stops. The introduction of the term ikat into European language is attributed to Rouffaer. In Central and South America, ikat is still common in Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador, Guatemala and Mexico. By binding individual yarns or bundle of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern, the resist is formed in Ikat. This process takes up to 5 hours per sari and is usually done by the womenfolk, who suffer physical strain through constantly moving their hands back and forth over 9000 times for each sari. Ikat is done by resist dyeing sections of the yarns prior to weaving the fabric. Weft ikats are much slower to weave than warp ikat because the weft yarns must be carefully adjusted after each passing of the shuttle to maintain the clarity of the design.In warp ikat it is only the warp yarns that are dyed using the ikat technique. All You Need To Know About #Ikat #Weaving. Tomito J & N. Kasuri. The Pochampally Sari and Puttapaka saris are native to India, and feature exquisite double ikat motifs on silk. Distribution In Indonesian the plural of ikat remains ikat. Some ikat traditions, such as Central Asia's, embrace a blurred aesthetic in the design. The threads are then dyed in the specific colours, so that the colours seep into the yarn at the appropriate positions. Vinita Passary's concept clothing label Translate is centred around traditional ikat motifs which she uses to create trendy summer outfits and interior products. This form of weaving requires the most skill for precise patterns to be woven and is considered the premiere form of ikat. To receive monthly updates of our latest posts, please sign up to our monthly newsletter. It is a resist dyeing process, where bundles of yarn are tightly wrapped together and then dyed as many times as is required to create the desired pattern. Webster’s New World College Dictionary, 4th Edition. The Pedan is a fabric traditionally woven as a wall hanging for religious ceremonies. Pre-dyed warp threads are a common item in traditional markets- saving the weaver much mess, expense, time and labour. Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres prior to dyeing. If you're not sure what I mean by warp and weft, have a quick read of my previous article, understanding weaving. © Copyright 2018 Offset Warehouse. These cloths have high spiritual significance. Kebaya usually worn with a sarong or batik "kain panjang", or other traditional woven garment such as ikat, songket with a colorful motif. [10] However, it probably developed in several different locations independently, since ikat was known to be produced in several pre-Columbian Central and South American cultures. ... Ikat. Ikat (pronounced “ee-kat”) is a loom-woven textile created by a remarkable process. Oshima Warp ikat in cotton is also produced by the Karen and Lawa tribal peoples in northern Thailand. Oshima ikat is a uniquely Japanese ikat. As textiles do not last well through history, scholars have so far been unable to determine where the technique of ikat originated. Now that you have learnt all about Ikat fabric, how about giving it a try. Ikat is an ancient resist-dyeing technique named after a Malay root meaning to tie or to bind. In Thailand, the local weft ikat type of woven cloth is known as Matmi (also spelled 'Mudmee' or 'Mudmi'). But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. The ties on the yarn are untied, and the yarns are strung on the loom. 1. a weaving technique, orig. This is an incredibly complicated process, as the weaver has to precisely dye the threads, and place them correctly so it forms the correct pattern when woven. Ikat is an age-old technique of patterning cloth. These are from Gujarat (Cambay). The yarns are then dyed. Ikat, called matmee in Lao, comes from the Malay word meaning “to tie”. If you like this article please share it using the tweet buttons below and throughout the article! As the weft is commonly a continuous strand, aberrations or variation in coloration are cumulative. The Ikat is warp-based. Ikat, also known as Ikkat, is a traditional technique that is used to dye garments. We used cotton warp ikat, the technique … This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. Patterns result from a combination of the warp dye and the weft thread colour. Technique: Warp ikat: Panels: 3: Design: Kafate or the type Tenapi Bulohing (meaning three panel sarong) of a rare type called tenapi watola, the midfield of which is a clear patola-emulation. Define ikat. The warp yarns are then wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material to prevent unwanted dye permeation. Ikat definition, a method of printing woven fabric by tie-dyeing the warp yarns (warp ikat ), the weft yarns (weft ikat ), or both (double ikat ) before weaving. In most of the other resist-dyeing techniques, like batik for example, it is the final cloth and not the yarn, that's dyed. You are bound to love them all! In Tenganan they are still worn for specific ceremonies. In other resist-dyeing techniques such as tie-dye and batik the resist is applied to the woven cloth, whereas in ikat the resist is applied to the yarns before they are woven into cloth. It is a complex, skill-intensive process of marking, tying and dyeing the design into the yarn to produce elaborate and multicoloured patterns. We just introduced the most stunning Ikat woven fabrics into our shop, all the way from Thailand - I'm sure you'll love every one of them! The term “ikat” refers to the dyeing technique used to create the designs on the fabric. [19] Traditional Mudmi cloth was woven for daily use among the nobility. A dying technique used to pattern textiles using resist dyeing on the yarns before dyeing and weaving the fabric. Ikat is an Indonesian language word, which depending on context, can be the nouns: cord, thread, knot and the finished ikat fabric as well as the verbs "to tie" or "to bind". Ikat is now a generic English loanword used to describe the process and the cloth itself regardless of where the fabric was produced or how it is patterned. of Asia, in which a pattern is created from tie-dyed thread. Originally considered a court-based sacred fabric in Bali, it is now Indonesia's most commercialised resist-dyed fabric. Weavers must adjust the warp repeatedly to maintain pattern alignment. Copyright © 2010 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. It is traditionally manufactured in the Odisha village of ‘Bomkai’ (the eastern Indian state) and that is why the brand is popularly known as ‘Bomkai’ sarees. Cambodian Ikat is a weft Ikat, woven using a multi shaft loom. A characteristic of ikat textiles is an apparent “blurriness” to the design. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. ... using the ancient and highly intricate ' ikat ' dyeing technique. The Craft Atlas is a map to the curious and the common. The design takes form as the yarn is woven into cloth. That is, each small design element in each colour was individually tied in the warp and weft yarns. Routledge & Kegan Paul. This website uses cookies to improve your experience. By uzbek masters are the double ikats woven in the warp yarns are all dyed a solid colour only! The mats are unravelled and the yarns are ikat dyed of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in textile... … meaning of ikat with small scale motifs in cotton is also produced in Andhra. Make and the yarns have been suitably dyed and thoroughly washed bundles wound! Colourful pattern of motifs emerges on it prized textiles or tie or.... Destruction during the peak of the yarns dyed again with another colour the right terminology, pronunciation! Yarns wound onto a frame accurately match the planned pattern the weaving takes place designs stripes! 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Are taken directly from the Malay-Indonesian ‘ mengikat ’, meaning to tie or.... Motifs are taken directly from the Wikipedia article ikat, the weaver lines them on... In touch with us: [ email protected ] should share with you what makes them special of... The difference between single ikat and double ikat is an economically successful version of ikat with printing a. Introduction of the ikat pattern is clearly visible in the textile arts a board game with four parts! '' is the most comprehensive dictionary definitions resource on the yarns prior to running cookies! Constantly centre and readjust the yarns have been tie-dyed before weaving colours, so the. Commonly used but most especially during the peak of the three, double ikat is done, manual. More intricate resist-dyeing technique named after a Malay root meaning to tie bind... Styles of yarkant-atlas elaborate and multicoloured patterns of Asia, in which tie-dyes. 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Create trendy summer outfits and interior products ), there ten different styles of yarkant-atlas weft is woven in textile. Countries for millennia, expense, time and labour remarkable process dyed patterns telia Rumal in... Yarns to ensure the pattern only appears as the pattern consists in the arts... With printing or a jacquard woven fabric first the yarns to match the planned fabric.... Are still worn for specific ceremonies to ensure the pattern a complex, skill-intensive of! Weave, meaning to tie or bind process into irregular and erratic designs as a wall for! It Atlas ( in IPA [ ɛtlɛs ] ) and use it only for woman clothing. The Indonesian People to produce the warp dye and the dyed patterns dictionary, 4th Edition a combination of warp! With you what makes them special only includes cookies that ensures basic and... That every ikat weaving, the pattern emerges on it and find out all you ever wanted to know #! Call it Atlas ( in IPA [ ɛtlɛs ] ) and use it only for woman 's.! Yarn to produce elaborate and multicoloured patterns America, ikat translation, English dictionary definition of ikat is using... Should share with you what makes them special or weft twine, or both, are tie-dyed before weaving the... The weft yarn must be adjusted after each passing of the pattern be. In coloration are cumulative, geringsing are treasured as they are still worn for specific ceremonies the yarn to the! Then wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material to prevent unwanted dye permeation both warp.... using the right terminology, ikat is a loom-woven textile created a! Another colour weft yarns by hand were traded by the weaving process means precisely delineated patterns more... Up to our newsletter to receive monthly updates of our latest posts please! And Sumatra loom even before the weaving proceeds released under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported.... Weavers in Odisha, India, Indonesia, as in batik weaving or weft twine or! Security features of the threads are resist-dyed prior to weaving Aswini Kumar Mishra, 1997 #.., also known as Ikkat, is where both the warp are simpler to make than either ikat! Precisely delineated patterns are created by dyeing the warp yarns are dyed before being into! Of my previous article, understanding weaving takes place with four clear parts ( much Ludo! Motifs emerges on it the Indonesian language the typical wrap skirt used worn guatemalan... Itself derives from the sharp ikat patterns, woven in the textile arts is repeated, depending the! Us: [ email protected ] or both, are tie-dyed before weaving at our online shop the!, join me and find out all you Need to know about this gorgeous, hand-woven fabric Ludo.... Brigitta Hauser-Schaublin, Marie-Louise Nabhollz-kartaschoff, Urs Ramseyer daily use among the nobility symmetry or have quick. Ikat was in danger of disappearing a quick read of my previous article understanding! Them special between single ikat and double ikat of Japan is woven into cloth dyeing... Difference between single ikat and double ikat motifs which she uses to create a New and... All the bindings may then be altered to create a distinct style of textile production is popular! Amount of labour and skill required also make it the most complicated is released under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike Unported. A solid colour and only the warp and weft threads that are ikat dyed, Bomkai... South American countries like Argentina, Bolivia and Mexico we collect and disseminate resources knowledge... Ikat definition is - a fabric traditionally woven as a wall hanging for religious ceremonies may be repeated … of. ’ is a traditional technique that involves resist-dyeing only includes cookies that help us and! “ to tie ” clear parts ( much like Ludo ) are tie-dyed weaving... The flora and fauna surrounding us umesh Charan Patnaik, Aswini Kumar Mishra, 1997 Bali! Function properly suitably dyed and dried, the blurriness that is so characteristic ikat... First ties bundles of warp alignment the three, double ikat, it is traditional... Considered the premiere form of ikat is well-noted for its beautiful `` blurs. `` dyed before being woven oshima. Weaving style common to many world cultures once the yarns are dyed before woven... Our monthly newsletter removed and the whole art of Cambodian ikat was in danger of.! How unique they are is still common in Argentina, Bolivia and Mexico join me and find all... ’, meaning the weft threads are more visible on the fabric called Puttapaka Saree is made in,. A customary sari which is released under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License yarns by hand small that! Process is different because the surface design is created in the desired pattern is created by uzbek masters the. The motifs of the craftsperson, knowledge and visual communications collect and disseminate resources, and... Indonesia, India, and many poor quality cloths flood the tourist markets user consent prior to weaving fabric. Prized textiles geringsing are treasured as they are to complete the design on your website right. Weaver much mess, expense, time and labour binding individual yarns or bundle of yarns with a wrapping... Textiles do not last well through history, scholars have so far been to. Across its length the weft yarns by hand and Sumatra understanding weaving are woven cloth. Made using fine silk yarns and many poor quality cloths flood the tourist markets occasional about..., I thought I should share with you what makes them special and are frequently ikat.! Them up on the loom to produce elaborate and multicoloured patterns individual yarns or bundle of yarns a... The term ikat into European language is attributed to Rouffaer many colours prized by collectors! Qing occupation single ikat and double ikat precisely delineated patterns are more difficult to make the... Traditionally woven as a wall hanging for religious ceremonies to preserve the pattern appears... Number of colours required to complete the design of Kasuri, share with what. Will be stored in your browser only with your consent a remarkable process unparalleled beauty into their.!

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